BRADSHAW’S DESCRIPTIVE RAILWAY HAND-BOOK

OF

GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.

BRADSHAW’S DESCRIPTIVE RAILWAY HAND-BOOK

OF

GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND

• OLD •
HOUSE

SECTION I.

BRADSHAW’S TOURS

THROUGH THE COUNTIES OF

KENT, SUSSEX, HANTS, DORSET, DEVON, THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

CONTENTS TO SECTION I.

HAMPSTEAD JUNCTION

ISLE OF WIGHT—

First Route—Ryde to Newchurch

Second Route—Ryde to the Needles

Third Route—Culver Cliff, through the centre of the Island

LONDON—Historical Sketch of

Guide through London

Places of Amusement, &c.

Places of Worship

LONDON AND BLACKWALL—

Fenchurch Street to Blackwall

London Bridge to Hampton Court

London Bridge to Herne Bay

LONDON, BRIGHTON, & SOUTH COAST—

Brighton to Worthing, Chichester and Portsmouth

Brighton to Lewes;

Croydon to Epsom

Croydon to Wimbledon

Hayward’s Heath to Lewes and Newhaven

Lewes to Hailsham, Eastbourne and Hastings

Lewes to Uckfield

London to Brighton

Three Bridges to Horsham & Petworth

Three Bridges to East Grinstead

Three Bridges to Steyning & Shoreham

LONDON, CHATHAM, AND DOVER—

Elephant and Castle to Herne Hill

Faversham to Whitstable & Herne Bay

London and Beckenham to Chatham, Canterbury, and Dover

Sevenoaks Junction to Sevenoaks

Sittingbourne to Sheerness

LONDON AND SOUTH WESTERN—

Barnes to Hounslow and Feltham

Basingstoke to Salisbury and Exeter

Bishopstoke to Gosport, Stokes Bay, and Portsmouth

Bishopstoke to Salisbury

Brockenhurst to Lymington

Chard Road to Chard

Godalming to Portsmouth

Guildford to Farnham and Alton

London to Richmond, Staines, and Windsor

London to Southampton, Portsmouth, and the Channel Islands

Portsmouth to the Isle of Wight

Ringwood to Christchurch

Southampton to the Channel Islands

Southampton to Dorchester and Weymouth

Staines to Wokingham and Reading

Surbiton to Hampton Court

Weybridge to Chertsey

Wimbledon to Croydon

Wimbledon to Epsom and Leatherhead

Wimborne to Blandford

Woking to Godalming

LONDON, TILBURY, AND SOUTHEND—

Bishopsgate and Fenchurch Street to Tilbury and Southend

MID-KENT—Lewisham to Beckenham

NORTH LONDON—

Bow to Chalk Farm

SOUTH EASTERN—

Ashford to Canterbury

Ashford to Hastings

Canterbury to Deal, Ramsgate, and Margate

Caterham Junction to Caterham

Canterbury to Whitstable

Lewisham to Beckenham

London Bridge to Folkestone & Dover

London Bridge to Greenwich

London to Woolwich, Gravesend, Strood, and Rochester

Paddock Wood to Maidstone

Reigate to Reading

Strood to Maidstone

Tunbridge to Hastings

ILLUSTRATIONS.

MAPS:—

Island of Alderney

Guernsey

Isle of Man

Isle of Wight

Jersey

London

London, Environs of

Island of Sark

VIEWS:—

CATHEDRALS:—

Durham

Hereford

Ely

Lichfield

Lincoln

Ripon

Salisbury

St. Asaph

St. Paul’s

Wells

Westminster

Worcester

York

CASTLES:—

Belvoir

Carnarvon

Chepstow

Conway

Dudley

Farnham

Goodrich

Kenilworth

Naworth

Raglan

Stirling

Warwick

Windsor

Crystal Palace, Sydenham

ISLE OF WIGHT:—

Blackgang Chine

Bonchurch Church

Brading

Carisbrooke Castle

Ryde

St. Catherine’s Church

St. Lawrence Church

Shanklin Chine

West Cowes

LONDON:—

Buckingham Palace

Houses of Parliament

London Monument

London, View of

Mansion House

Nelson’s Monument

Royal Exchange

The Tower

BRADSHAW’S DESCRIPTIVE RAILWAY HAND-BOOK

OF

GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.

SECTION I.

Note to Readers: This is as faithful a reproduction of BRADSHAW’S HANDBOOK 1863 as is practicable in this electronic format. Grammatical and typographical irregularities have been deliberately retained from that original, to give as close an approximation as possible of the Victorian reader’s experience of the book.

MIDDLESEX

Is a very important inland county, containing, with the British Capital, much of the wealth and political influence of the inhabitants of these realms.

Middlesex, from its gently waving surface, is particularly suited for agriculture. For the most part, the ground rises from the banks of the Thames towards the north; and within a few miles from London, a range of gently swelling eminences, of which Hampstead, Highgate, and Muswell Hill, are the chief, protects the metropolis from the northern blasts. These heights afford many pleasing and extensive prospects; and some equally extended views may be obtained from Harrow Hill, which from rising in a sort of insulated manner, forms a prominent object for many miles around. Middlesex is a well cultivated county; the vast quantities of manure from the metropolis have been of great service in improving the land; and on this account the produce is some weeks earlier within a few miles contiguous to London, than at a more considerable distance. No important metallic strata have been discovered in any part of the county; and appearances indicate that they lie at a depth much too great to be made subject to the operations of the miner.

LONDON.

HOTELS, BOARDING AND PRIVATE HOUSES.—For these, see the Advertising pages of Bradshaw’s Railway and Steam Navigation Guide, under the heading of HOTELS, &c., London.

LIST OF PARISH CHURCHES,

ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED.

WITHIN THE CITY.

Allhallows, Thames-street

Allhallows Staining, Mark-lane

Allhallows Barking, Tower-street

Allhallows, Bread-street

Allhallows, London Wall

Allhallows, Lombard-street

Bridewell Precinct

Christ Church, Newgate-street

Rolls Chapel

Round Church, Grays Inn

St. Alban, Wood-street

St. Alphage, Sion College

St. Andrew, Holborn

St. Andrew Undershaft, St. Mary Axe

St. Andrew Wardrobe, Doctors’ Commons

St. Anne, Aldersgate

St. Antholin, Watling-street

St. Austin’s, St. Paul’s

St. Bartholomew, Cripplegate

St. Bartholomew the Great

St. Bartholomew the Less

St. Benedict, Gracechurch-street

St. Benedict, Paul’s Wharf

St. Botolph, Aldersgate

St. Botolph, Aldgate

St. Botolph, Bishopsgate

St. Bride, Fleet-street

St. Catherine Coleman

St. Catherine Cree, Leadenhall-st.

St. Clement, Eastcheap

St. Dionis Backchurch Fenchurch-street

St. Dunstan-in-the-East, St. Dunstan’s-hill

St. Dunstan-in-the-West, Fleet-st.

St. Edmund the King, Lombard-st

St. Ethelburga, Bishopsgate

St. George, Botolph-lane

St. George, Queen-square

St. Giles, Cripplegate

St. Helen, Bishopsgate

St. James, Garlick-hithe

St. Lawrence, Jewry

St. Magnus, London-bridge

St. Margaret, Lothbury

St. Margaret Pattens, Rood-lane

St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard-st.

St. Mary Aldermary, Bow-lane

St. Mary, Aldermanbury

St. Mary-at-Hill, Eastcheap

St. Mary, Abchurch

St. Mary, Old Fish-street

St. Mary-le-bow, Cheapside

St. Mary, Somerset, Thames-street

St. Martin, Ludgate

St. Martin Outwich, Threadneedle-street

St. Matthew, Friday-street

St. Michael Basishaw, Basinghall-street

St. Michael, Cornhill

St. Michael, Wood-street

St. Michael, Queenhithe

St. Michael, College-hill

St. Mildred, Bread-street

St. Mildred, Poultry

St. Nicholas Coleabby, Old Fish-street

St. Olave, Hart-street

St. Olave, Jewry

St. Peter, Cornhill

St. Peter-le-Poer, Bread-street

St. Sepulchre, Snow-hill

St. Stephen, Wallbrook

St. Stephen, Coleman-street

St. Swithin, London Stone

St. Thomas, Chancery-lane

St. Vedast, Foster-lane

St. Peter-ad-Vincula, Tower Temple

WESTMINSTER, &C.

Battersea

Bermondsey

Bethnal Green, Jews’ Chapel

Bishopsgate, All Saints

Bloomsbury, St. George

Brompton, St. Paul’s

Camberwell

Chelsea

City-road, St. Matthew

Clerkenwell, St. James

Duke’s-place, St. James

Gough Square, Trinity Church

Hackney

Highgate

Holborn, Trinity Church

Hornsey

Islington, St. Mary

Kensington, St. Mary

King’s College Chapel, Strand

Lambeth Chapel

Limehouse

St. Luke, Old-street

Marylebone (St.)

Paddington

Pancras (St.) Middlesex

Shadwell, (St. Paul’s)

Shoreditch, St. Leonard

Southwark, St. George

Spitalfields, Christ Church

Spital-square, St. Mary

St. George-in-the-East

St. Thomas, Charter House

Wapping, St. John

Westminster, St. Anne’s

Whitechapel, St. Mary

INDEPENDENT CHAPELS.

Aldersgate-street (Welsh)

Artillery Chapel, Spitalfields

Barbican

Barnet

Battle-bridge

Bayswater (Craven-hill)

BedfordChapel, Charrington-road, St. Pancras

Bermondsey, Jamaica-row

Bermondsey, Neckinger-road

Bethnal-green-road

Bethnal-green, Gibraltar Chapel

Bethnal-green, Zion Chapel

Bethnal-green, Park Chapel

Bethnal-green, Sidney-st. Chapel

Bethnal-green, Virginia Chapel, Bishopsgate-street

Blackheath, Congregational Ch.

Brentford, Albany

Brentford, Boston-road

Brixton-hill, Trinity

Brixton-hill, Union

Broad-street, New

Camberwell-green

Camberwell, New-road

Camberwell, Albany-road

Camberwell, Mansion-house

Camden Town, Ebenezer

Camden Town, Park Chapel

Carey-street, New-court

Chelsea, King’s-road

City-road

City-road, Regent-street

Caledonian-road Chapel

Caledonian-road, Offord-road

Clapham

Clapham, Park-road

Clapham-road, Clayland’s Chapel

Clapton, Upper

Clapton, Lower, Pembury

Commercial-road, Wycliffe Chapel

Commercial-road, Bloomsbury

Craven Chapel, Golden-square

Cripplegate, Bell-court

Dalston

Deptford

Deptford (Welsh)

Drury-lane, Whitfield Chapel

Ealing

Edgeware

Edgeware-road, Trinity Chapel

Enfield, Baker-street

Enfield, Chase-side

Enfield, Highway

Enfield, Countess of Huntingdon

Falcon-square

Fetter-lane

Fetter-lane (Welsh)

Finsbury Chapel

Grafton-street

Greenwich-road

Hackney, Cambridge Heath

Hackney, Hampden

Hackney, Old Gravel-pits

Hackney-road, Adelphi Chapel

Hackney, St. Thomas’-square

Hackney-road, Oval

Hammersmith, Broadway

Hammersmith, Ebenezer Church

Holloway

Hornsey Park Chapel

Horsleydown, Union Chapel

Hoxton

Islington, Barnsbury

Islington, Upper-street

Islington, Lower-street

Islington, Union-street

Islington, Harecourt Chapel

Jewry-street

Kennington-lane, Esher-street

Kensington, Hornton-street

Kennington-lane, Lower Carlisle Chapel

Lambeth, York-road

Langham-place

Limehouse, Coverdale Chapel

Mile End, Brunswick-street

Mile End, Bedford-square

Mile End, Congregational Chapel

Mile End, Now Town

Mile End-road, Salem Chapel

Millwall

New North-road, Pavement Chapl

New North-road, Salem Chapel

New-road, Tonbridge Chapel

Newman-street, Oxford-street

Notting-dale, Kensington-park

Notting-hill, Horbury Chapel

Old Ford, Bow

Old Kent-road, Arthur-street

Old Kent-road, Marlbro’ Chapel

Orange-street

Paddington Chapel

Pentonville, Claremont Chapel

Pentonville road, Chapel

Pimlico, Buckingham

Pimlico, Eccleston Chapel

Poplar, Trinity Chapel

Poultry

Ratcliffe, Queen-street

Regent’s Park, Albany Chapel

Robert-street, Grosvenor-square

Rotherhithe, Lower-road

Rotherhithe, Russell-street

St. John’s Wood, Portland Chapel

Shadwell, Ebenezer Chapel

Sloane-street, Union Chapel

Soho, Nassau-street (Welsh)

Soho, Wardour Chapel

Southgate-road, De Beauvoir Twn

Southwark, Guildford-st. (Welsh)

Southwark, Cole-street

Spa Fields

Stepney Meeting

Stoke Newington, Abney Chapel

Surrey Chapel, Blackfriars-road

Tabernacle, Moorfields

Tabernacle, New, Old-street

Titchfield-street, Oxford-street

Tottenham Court-road

Walworth, Lock’s Fields

Walworth, Sutherland

Wapping, Gravel-lane

Weigh House, Fish-street-hill

Westminster, James-street

Whitechapel, Sion Chapel

Vauxhall-bridge rd., St. Leonard-street

BAPTIST CHAPELS.

Aldersgate-street

Alie-street, Little, Whitechapel

Alie-street, Great, Zoar

Artillery-lane

Bayswater, Westbourne-grove

Brompton

Blandford-street

Bloomsbury-street

Brick-lane, St. Luke’s

Bunhill-row, Blue Anchor-alley

Bethnal-green, Heart’s-lane

Bethnal-green, Peel-grove

Bethnal-green, Squirries-street

Bethnal-green, Twig Folly

Battersea

Borough, High-street

Borough-road

Borough Surrey Tabernacle

Borough Trinity-street

Borough, Crosby-row

Blackfriars-road, Church-street

Bedford Chapel, Charrington-st., St. Pancras

Bermondsey, Jamaica-row

Bermondsey, New Church-street

Bermondsey-road

Camberwell, Cottage-green

Camberwell, Denmark-place

Camberwell-gate, Arthur-street

City-road, Nelson-place

Chelsea, Cooks-green, King’s-road

City-road, East-road

Clapham, Cranmer-court

Clapham Common

Clapham, Courland-grove

Clapham, New Park-road

Clapham Wirtemberg-place

Commercial-rd., East, Devonport-street

Commercial-rd., East, Grosvenor-street

Chadwell-street, Pentonville

Chelsea, College-street

Chelsea, Paradise-walk

Chelsea, King’s-road

Commercial-rd., Devonshire-place

Cromer-street, Brnnswick-square

Dean-street, Soho, Meard’s-court

Devonshire-square

Dalston, Queen’s-road

Dorset-square, Edward-street

Dorset-square, Hill-street

Eldon-street, Finsbury

Edgware-road, New Church-street

Edgware-road, Shouldham-street

Euston-square, Gower-street

Gower-street

Gray’s-inn-lane, Henry-street

Hackney, Mare-street

Hackney-road, West-street

Henrietta-street, Brunswick-sq.

Homerton-row

Hoxton, Buttesland-street

Hoxton, High-street

Hoxton, Tabernacle

Islington, Cross-street

Islington Green

John-street, Gray’s-inn-road

Keppel-street

Kent-road, Alfred-place

Kennington, Charles-street

Kennington, Ebenezer

Kensington, Hornton-street

Kentish Town, Hawley-road

Kingsgate-street, Holborn

Kensall Green

Keusington, Horton-street

Lee, High-road

Lambeth, Waterloo-road

Lambeth, Regent-street

Lambeth, Kennington-road

Lincoln’s Inn Fields, L. Wild-st.

London-road, Earl-street

London-road, Garden-row

Lisson-grove, St. John’s-place

Mile End, Darling-place

Macclesfield-place, St. Luke’s

Maze Pond

Moorfields (Little), White-street

New Cross, Mason-street

New North-road, Wilton-square

New Park-street, Southwark

Nottting-hill, Johnson-street

Old Ford-lane

Old Pancras-road

Praed-street, Edgware-road

Pimlico, Prince’s-row

Pimlico, Westbourne-street

Regent-street, Riding House-lane

Regent’s-park

Rotherhithe, Midway-place

Store-street

Somers Town, Chapel-street

Shoreditch, Austin-street

Shoreditch, Mason’s-court

Shoreditch, Cumberland-street

Shadwell, Devonport-street

Shadwell, Victoria-street

Stepney Green, Willesley-street

Stepney College

Stepney Old Road

St. Luke’s, Brick-lane

St. Luke’s, Ratcliffe-row

Salter’s Hall, Cannon-street

Shepherd’s Bush

Shouldham-street, Bryanston-sq.

Soho Chapel, Oxford-street

Spencer-place, Goswell-road

Tooley-street, Unicorn-yard

Tottenham Church-road

Vernon-square, Pentonville

Westminster, Chapel Place

Westminster, Princess-place

Westminster, Romney-street

Wilderness-row, Goswell-street

Walworth, Arthur-street

Walworth, East-street

Walworth, Lion-street

Worship-street, Finsbury

WESLEYAN CHAPELS.

FIRST LONDON CIRCUIT.—City-road; St. John’s-square; Hackney-road; Jewin-st., City; New North-road; Angel-Alley, Bishopsgate-st.-without; Wilson-st.; Radnor-st.; Chequer-alley; Collingwood-st.

SECOND LONDON CIRCUIT.—Great Queen-st.; Lincoln’s Inn Fields; King’s Cross, Liverpool-st.; Camden-town, Camden-st.; Kentish-town, Gloucester-place; New-court, Old Bailey; Palace-yard, Finchley; Barnet; Whetstone; Upper Holloway.

THIRD LONDON CIRCUIT.—Spitalfields, Brick-lane; St. George’s, Back-road; East India-road, Poplar; Brunswick, Limehouse; Globe-road; Stratford, Chapel-street; Mill-Wall; Plaistow-Marsh; Spital-fields, Church-st.

THAMES MISSION.—Seaman’s, Commercial-road.

FOURTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Long-lane, Southwark; Albion-st., Rotherhithe; Silver-st., Rotherhithe; Stafford-st., Peckham; The Grove, Guildford-st.; Salisbury-terrace, Lock’s-fields.

FIFTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—China-terrace, Lambeth; Waterloo-road; Southville, Clifton-st.; Vauxhall-walk; South Lambeth, Dorset-st.

SIXTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Hinde-street, Manchester-square; Stanhope-st., Hampstead-road; Brunswick, Milton-st.; Dorset-square; Victoria-terrace, Portland Town; Poland-st., 10, Portland-road.

SEVENTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Chelsea, Sloane-terrace; Westminster, Romney-terrace; Justice-walk; Ranelagh-road; Battersea.

EIGHTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Islington, Liverpool-road; Highbury, Holloway-road; Hornsey-road; Dalston, Roseberry-place.

NINTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Hackney; Stoke Newington; Tottenham; Edmonton; Leyton; Enfield; Waltham Abbey; Walthamstow.

TENTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Brixton-hill; Walworth, Camberwell-road; Sydenham, Lower Norwood; Lordship-lane, Dulwich; Gypsy-hill; Newtown, Upper Norwood.

ELEVENTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Bayswater, Denbigh-row; Kensington, Kensall-town; Shepherd’s Bush, Providence-place.

TWELFTH LONDON CIRCUIT.—Bow; Plaistow; &c.

London is the capital of Great Britain, and indeed, if its commercial and political influence be considered, of the civilised world. The British metropolis, if we include its suburban districts, contains the largest mass of human life, arts, science, wealth, power, and architectural splendour that exists, or, in almost all these particulars, that ever has existed in the known annals of mankind. In making this assertion, it should be borne in mind that the power of some ancient cities — even of Rome herself — was relatively, but not positively greater; and that the only well authenticated superiority is that which may be traced to the architecture of a few early cities. The site of our gigantic metropolis is the very best that could have been selected for commercial purposes, as it is enabled, by means of the Thames, to carry on a water communication with every part of the globe. The architectural growth of London, however, may with reason be an object of pride and gratification to its inhabitants. The position of other great cities may indeed exhibit more striking features, but the situation of our metropolis happily combines all which may contribute to its wealth and convenience. Seated on a gentle slope, descending to the margin of a noble river, its plain is bounded on the north and south by two beautiful ranges of hills

The growth of London to its present size is most remarkable. In 1560, Finsbury and Holborn, St. Giles’ and St. Martin’s, were scattered villages. Westminster was not only a distinct but a distant city. A long dreary road led from Ludgate to the village of Charing—and beyond this all was open field and garden.

We should far exceed our limits were we even briefly to trace the progress by which the City of London extended itself in all directions, and rapidly increased in importance and magnitude to its present position, which is solely attributable to the commercial enterprise of its inhabitants. The annual value of the exports and imports, from and into the port of London, is computed to amount to between sixty and seventy millions sterling; and articles of domestic or foreign merchandize, including cattle and provisions—sent for the consumption of the inhabitants—amount to the value of £50,000,000, making, with the imports and exports, the sum of £120,000,000 worth of property annually moving to and from London.

The portion of this immense metropolis which is distinguished by the name of “The City” stands on the north bank of the Thames, from the Tower to the Temple, occupying only that space formerly encompassed by the wall, which in circumference measures about three miles.

When the great fire of 1666 destroyed almost the whole city within the walls, London possessed an architect worthy of raising the fallen capital from her ashes. But the citizens rejected the beautiful plan of Sir Christopher Wren, who proposed to make St. Paul’s the centre of the metropolis, and to carry spacious streets radiating in direct lines to the principal parts of the suburbs. A terrace was to adorn the banks of the river. The citizens opposed and frustrated this design, and hence the metropolis retains so many of the defects which subject London to the just criticisms of a stranger, on account of all its public buildings being huddled together in nooks and corners.

The first impressions of a visitor to London are generally of an unfavourable character, particularly if he enter it by one of the railway termini, situated in the more thickly populated parts. The dense atmosphere, the squalid appearance of the people, exclude all feelings of pride or admiration from our thoughts. But if he enter London by one of the Great Western roads, from Knightsbridge for instance, he is immediately struck with its surpassing grandeur. On the left there is a view of Kensington Gardens and its beautiful foliage; of Hyde Park, open, elevated, and lined on one side by private houses, some of which appear like palaces. On the right, Belgrave Square, with its magnificence, is invisible, it is true, but the entrance to Hyde Park by three arches, the Duke of Wellington’s splendid mansion, and the opening range of buildings of which it is the first, but scarcely the grandest, on one side; on the other the bold and imposing arched gate, surmounted with the colossal statue of the Great Duke; the Green Park, sloping, open, and ornamented by noble buildings, including the towering structures of Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall, the Houses of Parliament, and in the distance the Surrey Hills, is sufficient to give an idea of great architectural magnificence, and to excite in the spectator’s imagination, some slight idea of the grandeur of London, spreading its great dimensions interminably before and around him.

The stranger who enters London by this road will form a different opinion of it from the one who arrives through a road leading to the city. In either case, however, it must be seen in detail, to be adequately appreciated.

When we regard the extension of the communications between the metropolis and the most distant parts of the country, and the immense number of strangers who visit London in the course of a year, we believe a short description of what there is to be seen, and how to see it, will not be the least interesting feature of this work.

VISITORS’ GUIDE THROUGH LONDON.

IF the reader be a stranger in London, visiting the great metropolis simply on pleasure, he will most probably wish to walk through the principal streets or thoroughfares first, to make himself acquainted with their peculiar characteristics, as a general basis upon which he may subsequently extend his rambles in different directions, according to the particular objects that attract him most, or the time he intends to remain. Selecting St. Paul’s as the starting point, the visitor can proceed eastward or westward according to his own predilections. The man of business will probably prefer a visit to the centre of our commercial emporium, the heart of London, and proceeding down Cheapside visit the Exchange and the other public buildings in the city, a description of which he will find in Bradshaw’s Guide to London.

The majority of visitors will no doubt prefer going westward first, and therefore we cannot do better than proceed with them in that direction, commencing our inspection of the sights of London by taking an exterior view of St. Paul’s. For this purpose the visitor should walk entirely round it to observe all the architectural details, and enjoy the feelings of veneration and delight which the striking and impressive view of the cathedral is sure to produce. The extreme beauty and colossal proportions of this mighty temple are worthy of the highest admiration. The front view in particular at Ludgate Hill is very grand. The façade, consisting of a pediment, sustained by a double colonnade, and flanked by two towers, which though not particularly beautiful in themselves, harmonise well with the rest of the edifice, and give effect to the grandeur of the vast dome which, rising from the centre of the cross, is seen emerging from the two inferior towers, and swelling nobly and grandly high into mid-heaven.

In front of the cathedral formerly stood that famous Paul’s Cross, where sermons were preached to the people in the open air, and where politics and religion were mixed up in a manner to which the present times is a stranger. The site is now occupied by a fine statue of Queen Anne. Passing on to the left we enter the cathedral by the door of the northern portico to view the interior, or ascend to the top of the dome and look down on the scene below, at what may be considered the most stupendous and magnificent sight it is possible to imagine. The building is in the from of a cross, having, in its greatest length, a principal nave, divided from two side aisles by rows of massive pillars. Eight immense piers, each of them forty feet at the base, support the great dome of the central area. Over the intersection of the nave and transept swells the noble dome, so much admired from without. It is painted in fresco, with subjects taken from the life of the patron saint, and artists have recently been engaged in restoring those noble paintings, a work of considerable difficulty, when the dizzy height at which their labours must be carried on is taken into consideration.

Around about the aisles and angles of the vast pile are the monuments erected to the memory of the illustrious dead. They are not very fine specimens of art, but we forbear to criticise in the presence of the tombs of Nelson and Wellington, placed in the centre of the mighty temple, with the dome overhead, and all that is grand and imposing around. We can only offer the tribute of our homage of mind and heart to these heroes, whose names loom out from the pages of our history like the giants of a past race, before whom modern heroes dwindle into insignificance.

Pausing for a moment in thought, and recalling to mind the simplicity of character, the pure patriotism, genius, and deeds of the heroes whose tombs we contemplate, we could not but associate with their names, that of the great architect, so worthy of being placed on the same tablet with theirs, and then turning to admire the noble simplicity of that inscription over the entrance to the choir, in honour of “Sir Christopher Wren, builder of this church and city, who lived more than ninety years, not for his own but the public good. Reader if you seek his monument look around you,” and visit Sir J. Soane’s museum, in Lincoln’s-Inn-Fields, where his watch and other relics may be seen. On ascending to the whispering gallery the visitor can view the concave of the dome and its storied frescoes, then ascend upwards towards the summit, and in so doing admire the construction of the dome, which is really extraordinary. It consists of three separate shells, sprung from a common base, but separating and becoming distinct at the top. The inner one, which forms the dome as seen from within, is of the hemispheric form. it is built of brick. A short distance from its base, is a second dome, likewise of brick, which springs from the first, and ascending with a curve of a much greater circle, goes far above the inner shell, terminating in the key-stone and lantern which support the ball. Still encompassing the second shell is a third, which constitutes the dome as seen from without, and whose curve is thought to be singularly beautiful. It is formed of wood and iron most ingeniously combined, and protected from the weather by a sheeting of lead. It is ribbed and subdivided, not unlike an orange after the first peel is removed.

A light gallery encircles the top of the dome, to reach which upwards of 500 stone steps must be ascended, and this is the station from which the most extensive and complete view of London is commanded, affording a glimpse of the most extensive mass of buildings in the world. On all sides, as far as the eye can reach, the solid mass extends itself, along the great avenues, into vast suburbs. The frequent occurrence of reserved squares and patches of green lawns, is the most pleasing feature in the scene. The most conspicuous object, however, is the river, winding its way like a huge artery, beautiful and picturesque bridges spanning the stream, while steamers, wherries, and sailing vessels pass up and down the river. Then the traffic in the streets, the movement along the great thoroughfares of equipages and vehicles, the myriads of human beings hurrying to and fro, is a sight which is quite bewildering and overpowering; so that after extending one’s gaze over to the Surrey Hills, and admiring the outline of the Crystal Palace, one is glad to descend and leave the noble temple under the influence of feelings, strangely mingled, of admiration at its grandeur, veneration for the mind which had conceived the idea, the power which had executed this great work, and respect for that religion which could inspire the hearts of men to so stupendous an undertaking. Proceeding on, we descend Ludgate Hill, and in so doing admire the handsome shops and elegant articles exhibited for sale. At the bottom of the hill we pass the crossing, in Bridge Street, the obelisk of which is erected to the memory of Alderman Waithman, of reform celebrity; the street to the left leads to Blackfriars’ Bridge, and Farringdon Street on the right hand, to Holborn and Oxford Street.

Ascending Fleet Street, the great arterial thoroughfare of London towards the west, we pass on the left the office of the inimitable Punch, and a few doors beyond, that of Bradshaw’s Guide, nearly opposite to which is Johnson’s Tavern, where the great and learned doctor met his contemporaries, Goldsmith and others.

A short distance further on, we reach Chancery Lane, the well known thoroughfare, of legal repute, to the right. On the left are numerous avenues leading to the Temple, formerly the residences of the “Knights Templars,” and now leased by the common law students. There is in the tranquil retirement of these buildings, and garden facing the river, an appearance of delicious quietness, when contrasted with the noisy region of Fleet Street. Leaving this most interesting neighbourhood, we proceed through Temple Bar, the western boundary of the city, where the heads of criminals were formerly exhibited. Proceeding on the left side, we pass Essex Street, leading to the river, and the church of St. Clement’s Danes, facing which is the office of the Illustrated London News, and a few doors beyond is a magnificent building, constituting the establishment of Messrs. Smith and Son, the newspaper and railway advertising agents. Further on we reach the church of St. Mary’s, Strand, a beautiful edifice, possessing architectural features of great merit. We then observe a noble gateway on the left, which is the entrance archway to Somerset House, a magnificent pile of buildings, in the form of a quadrangle, with wings. Entering the court yard we observe Bacon’s allegorical sculpture of Father Thames, and the statue of George III. The edifice is now devoted to the business of Government, and consists of the offices for the collection of the Inland Revenue, the Audit, the Duchy of Cornwall, the Admiralty, the General Registrars’ &c. Under the open arches, at the principal entrance, are (on the left) the apartments of the Royal Society, and Society of Antiquaries, and on the right, those of the London University, and the Government School of Design. King’s College adjoins. The Venetian front of Somerset House, towards the river, is of striking magnificence, and its balustraded terrace affords a fine view of the river.

We will now survey Waterloo Bridge, which crosses the Thames in this neighbourhood. It is without exception the noblest work of the kind in Europe. It is a beautiful object, the arches being all of the same height, and the road quite level, which produces a fine effect. From the centre of the bridge there is a finer view of that part of London which lies on the banks of the Thames than from any other. Looking down the river, and immediately joining the bridge on the left, rises the noble front of Somerset House—the finest object of the kind in London, not excepting the new Houses of Parliament, which appear too low. A little further on, looking like a green oasis in the midst of a dark wilderness of warehouses and wharfs lay the pleasant gardens of the Temple. Behind these rise numerous spires, towers, &c. Lower down is Blackfriars. Bridge, rising behind which in unrivalled grandeur and beauty is the dome and towers of St. Paul’s Cathedral, and below this the Monument, the spires of other city churches, &c., receding till they are lost in the mist which always hangs over the city.

Looking up the river there is not much worthy of notice except the view of the Hungerford Bridge, a beautiful suspension bridge, and beyond, Westminster with the two Houses of Parliament, too far to be seen to advantage. We will therefore continue our ramble along the Strand to Charing Cross. The Strand is a fine street running parallel with the river. This part of the town was formerly the favourite abode of our ancient nobility. Their mansions looked towards the Strand, while the space between them and the river was formed into gardens, terraces and steps conducting to the level of the stream, which was at that time the great highway.

At Charing Cross, a great many streets unite and pour their crowds of pedestrians in all directions. Northumberland House, the only noble residence that remains in this locale, surmounted by the proud lion which guards the arms of that family, is a conspicuous object at the end of the Strand. The next is the much admired equestrian statue in bronze, of Charles I. In front to the right is Trafalgar Square, in the centre of which is the appropriate column and statue erected in honour of Nelson, and a recently erected statue of the late General Sir Chas. Napier. Behind this is that singularly dull, heavy-looking building, the National Gallery, by the side of which, standing out in beautiful outline, is the celebrated church of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, built by Gibbs.

The National Gallery extends along the whole of the north side of the square. Although this gallery of paintings is inferior to the great continental galleries, still it is a highly valuable collection, and has been enriched by gifts and bequests of works of art of great value. The collection began in 1824 with Mr. Angerstein’s and others’ pictures, to which Mr. Turner’s munificent bequest was added in 1861, and, together with the Vernon and Sheepshanks’ collections, have been since removed to the South Kensington Museum. If, however, our National Gallery is not so rich in pictures as many of the museums of small cities abroad, it must not be concluded that the people of this country do not value and appreciate the fine arts. It is only by accidental visits to the residences of noblemen and gentlemen who possess the greatest treasures of art that we obtain an idea of the almost boundless wealth of the country in this respect. We think it not hazarding too much to say that there are a greater number of fine pictures in England than in all the other countries of Europe together; and we doubt not that the National Gallery will, as it is in contemplation to remove it from its present site, and to make extensive purchases of valuable works of art, in process of time, through gifts and bequests, exhibit the most splendid collection of pictures that has ever been accumulated in one establishment

Instead of proceeding westward through Trafalgar Square, we will turn to the left, through the celebrated avenue of Government Offices, situated on both sides of Whitehall.

The first range of buildings of importance on the right is the Admiralty; and further on the Horse Guards, a fine stone building, surmounted by a small tower and clock. It is easily recognised by the mounted sentinels in the small recesses on the sides. The building opposite, built as a banquetting hall by Inigo Jones as a portion of the then proposed Royal Palace, is now the Chapel Royal, fronting which Charles I. was executed.

Beyond, on the right is the Treasury, with its fine massive exterior, reaching from the Horse Guards to Downing Street. Facing this on the left is Whitehall Gardens, in one of which mansions resided the late Sir Robert Peel, up to the period of his untimely and lamented death.

Proceeding on through Parliament Street, we come to the street leading to Westminster Bridge, and beyond to the open space, known as New Palace Yard, opposite Westminster Hall, the New Houses of Parliament, and Westminster Abbey. The view here is exceedingly grand and imposing. The statue of Canning seems to personify the best attributes of a constitutional minister of a great country.

Westminster Hall.—The external appearance of this celebrated edifice is far less noble than is generally anticipated. Nothing, however, can be simpler or grander than the effect of the hall when seen from within. You find yourself in a vast edifice, near three hundred feet in length, having on every side only plain walls of stone, and no column or obstruction of any sort to intercept the view and break the character of simplicity and vastness. High over head rises a bold and hardy roof, supported by no column, but propped up with inconceivable lightness and grace on a series of wooden groinings, springing from stone mullions on the side walls. This roof is built entirely of chesnut wood, carved all over, put together with the greatest ingenuity, and richly ornamented with the heraldic emblems of Richard II., by whom it was built. It is almost entirely the same as it was when constructed towards the commencement of the fifteenth century, and yet without any impress of decay. In the various specimens of Gothic architecture which are to be seen throughout the Continent, there is nothing which bears any resemblance whatever to this, for its eccentricity, beauty, and lightness, which no one can observe without astonishment and admiration.

The New Houses of Parliament, or the New Palace of Westminster, as it is called, is the largest Gothic edifice in the world. It comprises the Houses of Parliament, the Courts of Law, and Westminster Hall, in one edifice. If we proceed to the centre of Westminster Bridge, we shall obtain a fine view of the river frontage, which is divided into five principal compartments, pannelled with tracery, and decorated with rows of statues and shields. The terrace is appropriated to the exclusive use of the Speaker and the members of both Houses. When old Westminster Bridge is replaced by the new iron bridge now in course of construction, the view of the Houses of Parliament will be much finer, as the old bridge is too lofty, and seems to crush the delicate Gothic style of the beautiful building. At present it is seen to the best advantage from the opposite bank of the Thames, along the walk in front of Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The small towers give a picturesque effect to the river front, but the three principal ones, the Victoria, Central, and Clock, do not add to the beauty of the building.

Retracing our steps to New Palace Yard, we enter the Palace through Victoria Tower, a truly royal entrance.

The rebuilding of the Houses of Parliament is the most important architectural work which has been undertaken in this country since the re-edification of St. Paul’s Cathedral; and it may be added, that in arrangement, detail, warming, and ventilation combined, so perfect a structure was never before planned. The exterior of the House of Lords presents no enriched architectural features, but the interior is, without doubt, the finest specimen of Gothic civil architecture in Europe, its proportions, arrangement, and decorations being perfect, and worthy of the great nation at whose cost it has been erected.

Entering the house from the Peers’ Lobby, the effect is magnificent in the extreme. The length and loftiness of the apartment, its finely proportioned windows, with the gilded and canopied niches between them, the Royal throne, glowing with gold and colours, the richly-carved panelling which lines the walls, with its gilded emblazoned cove, and the balcony of brass, of light and elegant design, rising from the canopy; the roof, most elaborately painted; its massy beams and sculptured ornaments, and pendants richly gilded; all unite in forming a scene of royal magnificence, as brilliant as it is unequalled.

The House of Commons is in a direct line with the House of Lords, at the north end of the structure. The aspect of the house altogether, is that of plain and business-like serenity, adapted to the deliberation of legislators. The Speaker’s chair is placed in such a position that, supposing all the doors open between them, the Chancellor on the woolsack and the Speaker in the chair would exactly face each other. Yet although this palace of the parliament cannot for centuries rival in its associations the humble structure of St. Stephen’s Chapel, let us hope that the future representatives of Great Britain will not prove inferior to their predecessors in genius and patriotism.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.—This noble pile, in magnificence of extent, grandeur of proportions, and elaborate beauty of construction, can most favourably be compared with the noblest specimens of Gothic architecture in Europe. It possesses a symmetrical and homogeneous character throughout. There appears one defect in the external appearance which is sufficiently obvious, and that is, the too great length compared with the height, though this, within, adds vastly to the character of, grandeur and continuity, as you glance along the naves from extremity to extremity. If, however, there are any impressions on the mind at variance with unqualified admiration in contemplating this grand structure without, those impressions vanish as the visitor enters the cloister, and, passing the noble portal, stands in the midst of columns, arches, and swelling naves, surrounded by the mighty dead of England, treasured remains, sculptured effigies, and recorded epitaphs of those who have emblazoned our history with the brightness of their deeds, immortalised our language, and shed undying glory on our race. No one can wander through these precincts, the aisles of the Abbey, examine the monuments and read the inscriptions, without a feeling of awe and admiration, and offering the homage of his mind at the throne of departed genius.

In the chapel of Henry VII. the mind is awed by the gorgeous character of the architecture, and the splendour of the monuments which entomb the buried majesty of England’s Kings; while above are seen the swords, helmets, and waving banners of the Knights of some of the noblest orders of Christendom, to complete the impression of the scene, and fill the imagination with images of magnificence and pomp.

It is in the Poets’ Corner, however, that the pilgrim’s footsteps most fondly linger. It is there that his eyes trace and retrace names, and study lineaments, connected with his sublimest and tenderest associations. No place in the world is so capable of recalling to “memory’s light” so many associations connected with whatever is most god-like in human genius. Supposing each country to have—but alas it has not!—a like hallowed receptacle for the remains of its most honoured children, which is there of modern times that can boast such a name as Shakspeare? Where shall we look for the counter-part of the divine Milton? Where else for the genius which characterised Newton ?

The monuments of the Poets’ Corner are blackened by time, but the memory of those to whom they are sacred is still, and will ever be, green in the hearts of their countrymen and their descendants, and in every region of the world inhabited by those who speak the language in which they wrote.

“That venerable shrine where repose the ashes of
our patriots, poets, and sages.”

Upon leaving the Abbey, we will proceed through St. James’s Park, which we can glance at in passing, to the Duke of York’s Monument, at the bottom of Regent Street, and conclude our walk by a view of Carlton Gardens, Pall Mall, &c. The view from the statue over the park is exceedingly fine, embracing the towers of the Abbey and the new Houses of Parliament. On the other hand, the wide and noble avenue of Regent Street, the princely edifices of the nobility, many of them built in a grand and chaste style of architecture, and the magnificent Club Houses, render this one of the finest quarters in London.

Starting from this point the ensuing day, the visitor should wend his way up Regent Street, the first point of interest in which is where it opens into a circus, at the intersection of Piccadilly, leading to Hyde Park, Chelsea, Hammersmith, &c.—one of the greatest thoroughfares in London, or perhaps in the world. Continuing his walk up this fine street, the visitor cannot fail to admire it. The rows of symmetrical and ornamented edifices produce a fine effect—on each side are a collection of brilliant shops, filled with most costly articles, attesting at once the wealth, luxury, refinement of the land, and the acmé of excellence to which the manufactures of this country have attained.

Proceeding on, we reach the intersection of Oxford Street, where Regent street again opens out and forms a circus. This is another thoroughfare between the east and the west, the left leading to Oxford Street, Hyde Park, &c.—the right to Holborn and the City. Continuing our walk along Oxford Street we find the shops assume a still more elegant and fashionable appearance—their extent, neatness, and elegance of arrangement are admirable. Oxford Street consists of a straight line of shops, not less than two miles in length, with a broad footpath on each side, and a carriage-road in the centre. This street is perpetually thronged with splendid equipages, on account of its being the grand avenue in which run most of the side streets leading to the squares, &c., where the nobility and people of fashion reside. This is called the neighbourhood of the squares, and is deservedly the boast of London. In the whole of that part of the town, north of Oxford Street, there are scarcely any shops, most of the houses being occupied by persons of distinction. Thisis considered by far the finest part of London.

From Regent Circus, Oxford Street, the visitor may proceed Northwards, passing All Soul’s Church,